Week 2 Sit Stay Very Beginning and Distraction Beginning
PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION.
NOTE ON STAYS: DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE. IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT. IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON. CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES.
Equipment Needed:
6' Leash (to begin with)
Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar)
15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present)
Explanation and Goal of Exercise: The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given. The handler/owner will be increasing the duration first, add in distractions, and finally add on distance from the dog to this exercise.
Uses for This Exercise: Great for keeping a dog stationary when doing chores around the house. Stationing a dog in any human or canine social environment when needed. To keep the dog from greeting too enthusiastically by learning to wait and greet when allowed. There are many other uses for this exercise.
The very beginning of this exercise, starts with duration:
STEP 1: Give the sit command in either heel position or randomly (in other words dog is walking not in heel position).
STEP 2: Give the verbal stay command (if you are going to be competing be sure to give the hand gesture too in front of their face) NOTE: SOME PEOPLE USE SIT AS THE CUE TO STAY UNTIL RELEASE WORD, WHICH IS OKAY. IN COMPETITION YOU MUST SAY STAY. SOME PEOPLE JUST FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE SAYING STAY, SO THIS IS USUALLY THE WAY THAT I TEACH IT.
STEP 3: The handler/owner will remain by the dogs side. I start the dogs off (if they are truly green) as low as five seconds to fifteen seconds at first. When they are staying there consistently four out of five times for the duration, I start moving the duration up from 5 additional seconds to as much as 30 additional seconds depending on the dog. If a dog is not truly green, I may start at either 15 or 30 seconds. I will test the dog first.
STEP 4A: If the dog attempts to get up, there are a few ways to save the command. (1) You can step out quickly in front of them, then walks towards them if their butt didn't entirely come off. This usually makes the dog sit back down. (2) If you time the sit correction right you can have them sit back down before their butt gets up (if you have not been taught the sit correction, do not use this yet). NOTE: IF THEY CORRECT THEMSELVES DURING THE EXERCISE, THIS CAN BE COUNTED AS A SUCCESSFUL REPITITION IN THE SPIRIT OF THE FOUR OUT OF FIVE RULE. IF THE DOG DOES NOT STAY IN POSITION OR DOES NOT CORRECT THEMSELVES, THIS WAS NOT A SUCCESSFUL REPETITION or 3) quickly mold them back as per the molded sit exercise sheet as your correction.
STEP 4B: If your dog was successful by staying in place OR self correcting themselves (this is an important learning step for the dog), then praise with a "good girl/boy" and a low key pat (unless your dog needs the higher praise because they are shy or fearful, and not likely to become unglued due to the stimulation).
STEP 5: Give your dog the release word. (be sure that good girl/boy or a treat does not ever become the cue to release)
STEP 6: Work for about 15 minutes or so. DO NOT increase the duration until your dog can successfully do them four out of five times at the old duration. You want to build this exercise up to one minute before going on to the next step.
Beginning distraction for the dog:
NOTE: AS DISTRACTIONS AND DISTANCE ARE ADDED TO THE EXERCISE, IT IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE THAT YOU WILL NEED TO START AT LESS TIME THAN BEFORE. GENERALLY YOU CAN QUICKLY BUILD THIS UP AGAIN. TRY NOT TO RUSH THE DOG TOO MUCH. IF YOU CAN NOT A GET A GOOD PERCENTAGE OF REPETIONS THAT ARE SUCCESSFUL, THAT USUALLY MEANS YOU HAVE RUSHED THE DOG TOO FAST. BACK DOWN ON THE TIME.
STEP 1: From the heel or random position, place the dog into a sit.
STEP 2: Give the verbal and/or hand signal to stay.
STEP 3A: If the dog has much trouble with you going around, you can hold the leash straight up like a rod with slight pressure on the dog. Attempt a complete circle around the dog staying only inches away from your dog. You can even start with quarter circles rather than a full circle around the dog at first. Some very young dogs or fearful dogs are very distracted and/or nervous by a human walking behind them.
STEP 3B: If the dog is slightly distracted and confident, then you can start with the leash loose, and attempt a complete circle around your dog. If they get up or do not self correct, this is not a successfully completed repetition.Start with just one circle. As you are able to consistently do four out of five circles, begin doing more until you can complete a full minute.
STEP 4A: If the dog attempts to get up, there are a few ways to save the command. (1) You can step out quickly in front of them, then walks towards them if their butt didn't entirely come off. This usually makes the dog sit back down. (2) If you time the sit correction right (see the sit correction exercise sheet), you can have them sit back down before their butt gets up.
STEP 4B: If your dog was successful by staying in place OR self correcting themselves (this is an important learning step for the dog), then praise with a "good girl/boy" and a low key pat (unless your dog needs the higher praise because they are shy or fearful, and not likely to become unglued due to the stimulation).
STEP 5: Give your dog the release word. (be sure that good girl/boy or a treat does not ever become the cue to release)
STEP 6: Do each repetition 15 times. DO NOT increase the duration until your dog can successfully do them four out of five times at the old duration. You want to build this exercise up to one minute before going on to the next step.
Increasing the distraction level for the dog:
NOTE: AS DISTRACTIONS AND DISTANCE ARE ADDED TO THE EXERCISE, IT IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE THAT YOU WILL NEED TO START AT LESS TIME THAN BEFORE. GENERALLY YOU CAN QUICKLY BUILD THIS UP AGAIN. TRY NOT TO RUSH THE DOG TOO MUCH. IF YOU CAN NOT A GET A GOOD PERCENTAGE OF REPETIONS THAT ARE SUCCESSFUL, THAT USUALLY MEANS YOU HAVE RUSHED THE DOG TOO FAST. BACK DOWN ON THE TIME.
There are a number of things that you can add to the above, while you are doing circles to be distracting.
Same rules as above. 15 reps and not increasing distraction level until they can do 4 out of 5 under a distraction. As they get used to each one, you can start alternating.
Increase distance level for the dog:
STEP 1: Begin working by stepping out a few inches with the six foot lead, after giving the "stay" command and/or signal. When you are working at the end of the six foot lead with four out of five successful repetitions, start working on your long line, and then to the end of that.
STEP 2: Work with distractions listed above (safely) at each distance level that you make. (Remember, you may need to back down on the time again to work back up to it as this new item is added to training. You may also have to work without an additional distraction at first.). You will either want to time this or take note of the circles you are able to do while the dog is around distractions. As the distractions increase, you may need to decrease either the distance away or the time (or circles), and then work back up to a time and distance.
STEP 3: If your dog successfully performs per your new goal, you can praise him/her and then use your release word. Never allow the praise to become the release word. If your dog begins to break, but catches themselves (this is a process where learning is taking place), you can praise him later because he caught himself. The handler should try to catch the dog before their bum comes up and they move. If they successfully move themselves, then the handler needs to return them to their position and location (non verbally), and complete the exercise.
STEP 4: Only move time and distance when the dog can perform (without correction or treat) four out of five times at the current goal. If you are having trouble meeting this, then you need to back down the time or distance. It is possible, that you also did not wait until the dog could complete at the lower levels before going on, and then it may make sense to complete those steps again.
NOTE ON STAYS: DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE. IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT. IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON. CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES.
Equipment Needed:
6' Leash (to begin with)
Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar)
15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present)
Explanation and Goal of Exercise: The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given. The handler/owner will be increasing the duration first, add in distractions, and finally add on distance from the dog to this exercise.
Uses for This Exercise: Great for keeping a dog stationary when doing chores around the house. Stationing a dog in any human or canine social environment when needed. To keep the dog from greeting too enthusiastically by learning to wait and greet when allowed. There are many other uses for this exercise.
The very beginning of this exercise, starts with duration:
STEP 1: Give the sit command in either heel position or randomly (in other words dog is walking not in heel position).
STEP 2: Give the verbal stay command (if you are going to be competing be sure to give the hand gesture too in front of their face) NOTE: SOME PEOPLE USE SIT AS THE CUE TO STAY UNTIL RELEASE WORD, WHICH IS OKAY. IN COMPETITION YOU MUST SAY STAY. SOME PEOPLE JUST FEEL MORE COMFORTABLE SAYING STAY, SO THIS IS USUALLY THE WAY THAT I TEACH IT.
STEP 3: The handler/owner will remain by the dogs side. I start the dogs off (if they are truly green) as low as five seconds to fifteen seconds at first. When they are staying there consistently four out of five times for the duration, I start moving the duration up from 5 additional seconds to as much as 30 additional seconds depending on the dog. If a dog is not truly green, I may start at either 15 or 30 seconds. I will test the dog first.
STEP 4A: If the dog attempts to get up, there are a few ways to save the command. (1) You can step out quickly in front of them, then walks towards them if their butt didn't entirely come off. This usually makes the dog sit back down. (2) If you time the sit correction right you can have them sit back down before their butt gets up (if you have not been taught the sit correction, do not use this yet). NOTE: IF THEY CORRECT THEMSELVES DURING THE EXERCISE, THIS CAN BE COUNTED AS A SUCCESSFUL REPITITION IN THE SPIRIT OF THE FOUR OUT OF FIVE RULE. IF THE DOG DOES NOT STAY IN POSITION OR DOES NOT CORRECT THEMSELVES, THIS WAS NOT A SUCCESSFUL REPETITION or 3) quickly mold them back as per the molded sit exercise sheet as your correction.
STEP 4B: If your dog was successful by staying in place OR self correcting themselves (this is an important learning step for the dog), then praise with a "good girl/boy" and a low key pat (unless your dog needs the higher praise because they are shy or fearful, and not likely to become unglued due to the stimulation).
STEP 5: Give your dog the release word. (be sure that good girl/boy or a treat does not ever become the cue to release)
STEP 6: Work for about 15 minutes or so. DO NOT increase the duration until your dog can successfully do them four out of five times at the old duration. You want to build this exercise up to one minute before going on to the next step.
Beginning distraction for the dog:
NOTE: AS DISTRACTIONS AND DISTANCE ARE ADDED TO THE EXERCISE, IT IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE THAT YOU WILL NEED TO START AT LESS TIME THAN BEFORE. GENERALLY YOU CAN QUICKLY BUILD THIS UP AGAIN. TRY NOT TO RUSH THE DOG TOO MUCH. IF YOU CAN NOT A GET A GOOD PERCENTAGE OF REPETIONS THAT ARE SUCCESSFUL, THAT USUALLY MEANS YOU HAVE RUSHED THE DOG TOO FAST. BACK DOWN ON THE TIME.
STEP 1: From the heel or random position, place the dog into a sit.
STEP 2: Give the verbal and/or hand signal to stay.
STEP 3A: If the dog has much trouble with you going around, you can hold the leash straight up like a rod with slight pressure on the dog. Attempt a complete circle around the dog staying only inches away from your dog. You can even start with quarter circles rather than a full circle around the dog at first. Some very young dogs or fearful dogs are very distracted and/or nervous by a human walking behind them.
STEP 3B: If the dog is slightly distracted and confident, then you can start with the leash loose, and attempt a complete circle around your dog. If they get up or do not self correct, this is not a successfully completed repetition.Start with just one circle. As you are able to consistently do four out of five circles, begin doing more until you can complete a full minute.
STEP 4A: If the dog attempts to get up, there are a few ways to save the command. (1) You can step out quickly in front of them, then walks towards them if their butt didn't entirely come off. This usually makes the dog sit back down. (2) If you time the sit correction right (see the sit correction exercise sheet), you can have them sit back down before their butt gets up.
STEP 4B: If your dog was successful by staying in place OR self correcting themselves (this is an important learning step for the dog), then praise with a "good girl/boy" and a low key pat (unless your dog needs the higher praise because they are shy or fearful, and not likely to become unglued due to the stimulation).
STEP 5: Give your dog the release word. (be sure that good girl/boy or a treat does not ever become the cue to release)
STEP 6: Do each repetition 15 times. DO NOT increase the duration until your dog can successfully do them four out of five times at the old duration. You want to build this exercise up to one minute before going on to the next step.
Increasing the distraction level for the dog:
NOTE: AS DISTRACTIONS AND DISTANCE ARE ADDED TO THE EXERCISE, IT IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE THAT YOU WILL NEED TO START AT LESS TIME THAN BEFORE. GENERALLY YOU CAN QUICKLY BUILD THIS UP AGAIN. TRY NOT TO RUSH THE DOG TOO MUCH. IF YOU CAN NOT A GET A GOOD PERCENTAGE OF REPETIONS THAT ARE SUCCESSFUL, THAT USUALLY MEANS YOU HAVE RUSHED THE DOG TOO FAST. BACK DOWN ON THE TIME.
There are a number of things that you can add to the above, while you are doing circles to be distracting.
- Sit on a chair.
- Squat down in front of the dog.
- Bounce a ball around the dog.
- Throw toys away from the dog into the area. (Later on as, distance is worked on, you can throw toys or roll toys towards the dog.
- Change the area to the beach, dog park, grocery parking lot, during a walk in the neighborhood et
- Skip or hop around your dog. Act silly in any way.
- Work in a park or beach where leashed dogs, joggers, skateboarders, or children are.
Same rules as above. 15 reps and not increasing distraction level until they can do 4 out of 5 under a distraction. As they get used to each one, you can start alternating.
Increase distance level for the dog:
STEP 1: Begin working by stepping out a few inches with the six foot lead, after giving the "stay" command and/or signal. When you are working at the end of the six foot lead with four out of five successful repetitions, start working on your long line, and then to the end of that.
STEP 2: Work with distractions listed above (safely) at each distance level that you make. (Remember, you may need to back down on the time again to work back up to it as this new item is added to training. You may also have to work without an additional distraction at first.). You will either want to time this or take note of the circles you are able to do while the dog is around distractions. As the distractions increase, you may need to decrease either the distance away or the time (or circles), and then work back up to a time and distance.
STEP 3: If your dog successfully performs per your new goal, you can praise him/her and then use your release word. Never allow the praise to become the release word. If your dog begins to break, but catches themselves (this is a process where learning is taking place), you can praise him later because he caught himself. The handler should try to catch the dog before their bum comes up and they move. If they successfully move themselves, then the handler needs to return them to their position and location (non verbally), and complete the exercise.
STEP 4: Only move time and distance when the dog can perform (without correction or treat) four out of five times at the current goal. If you are having trouble meeting this, then you need to back down the time or distance. It is possible, that you also did not wait until the dog could complete at the lower levels before going on, and then it may make sense to complete those steps again.
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